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Wanda and I aspired to climb all of New York's 46 mountains over 4000ft in elevation. It was a thought that rolled easily off the tongue but we feared it was more fun to talk about than actually accomplish. With only the two easiest peaks under our belt, Cascade and Porter, we hardly felt worthy enough to even mention the thought of becoming Adirondack 46ers. We wanted to hike something BIG and if that didn't kill us, we'd slowly check off each of the 46 Adirondack High Peaks until we reached either our goal or our breaking point.
Mt Marcy is the highest mountain in New York State and one of the best hikes in Adirondack State Park. I can attest to that. It's relatively close distance to the quaint village of Lake Placid in Essex County, home to the 1932 and 1980 Winter Olympics makes it a popular hike for adventurous tourist. Although not as tough as some of the other high peaks, at it's shortest distance of 15 miles out and back, it's a long day for even the most experienced of hikers. On a clear day the 360 degree panoramic view from the summit makes it one of the best places to catch a breathtaking view of the high peaks wilderness area.
Wanda and I planned for weeks, reading hiking forums and blogs about what to expect. A 15-mile day-trip sounded like a little bit of a stretch for us, so we planned doing it as an overnight. Wanda never overnighted in the wilderness so naturally she had a lot of questions. Not really any about the logistics of it, just about creepers lurking around our tent in the middle of the night. I assured her that this was a very popular camping area and its probably safer than shopping at a big box store. Besides, I'm pretty sure two middle-aged women who are overweight and armed with premenopausal rage are not going to be at the top of the food chain for a stalker.
I had major anxiety about this trip but I didn't share it with Wanda. It wasn't so much about the mountain itself or overnighting in the backcountry, but in the logistics of getting there. The Van Hoevenberg trail is the most popular route taken to the summit of Mount Marcy, Algonquin, Phelps, and several other high peaks. The trail head begins at the Adirondack Loj. The "Loj" owned by the Adirondack Mountain Club is what I consider the mecca of the high peaks wilderness area. This is a heavily trafficked area, seeing thousands of hikers a season. The parking area is large but fills up quickly. I read that if we weren't there before 6AM, we'd most likely get turned away and there is no parking on the sides of Heart Lake Rd. Securing a parking space for the weekend by chance was unsettling especially since we had a three and half hour commute.
We wanted to set up our campsite somewhere halfway in-between the parking lot and the summit of Marcy. After endlessly studying the map, there really didn't seem like any good options. Marcy Dam located a little over two miles from the Loj is often the preferred choice for most hikers looking to camp along the Van-Hoevenberg trail. It was once home to a wooden dam located on Marcy Brook until it was destroyed in 2011 by Hurricane Irene. Remnants of the dam can still be seen. Camp sites and lean-tos here and in all the areas surrounding the high peaks are first-come first-serve. There were a few other sites after Marcy Dam but there was no guarantee that they would be available. Walking into the forest without knowing if we'd find a home for the evening terrified me . I pictured us wandering around aimlessly in the dark then eventually propping ourselves up against a tree while the black flies picked the meat off our bones as we drifted to sleep.
Mount Marcy is located in the Eastern High Peaks Zone. Due to the amount of hikers that visit this area, there are several restrictions put in place to protect the land and alpine vegetation. The rules are strictly enforced by DEC forest rangers and trail stewards.
-No campfires
This was a bummer. Sitting around a campfire in my opinion is the best part of overnighting in the wilderness. I'm sure the DEC has good reasons for this considering the amount of hikers that pass through. I brought an incense punk and a small candle. That seemed to satisfy my longing for a flame filled kumbaya.
-Bear canisters are required for overnighting.
This one threw me for a loop. I've overnighted in other hiking areas with bears and simply just hung my food in a bag from a tree. That seemed reasonable to do. After further reading, the DEC was adamant about every camper having their food in one of these strange looking vessels. They warned of a hefty fine for noncompliance. I begrudgingly researched on where to purchase this thing. Most outfitters like REI or the Mountaineer had them available and I've found that some places even rent them out. I decided it was probably worth purchasing it if we were serious about climbing all the mountains. It was too soon in our journey to get an accurate assessment of how serious we were. I guessed it could be returned if this trip went horribly wrong.
I ordered the cheapest one from REI and later found out that it wasn't up to DEC standards. Thankfully I found this out before we did our hike. There's actually pictures on a hiking forum of the very same clear bear canister I ordered, ripped in half by a bear. Wanda started to wonder if we would be ripped in half by a bear. I assured her that bears don't like tequila so she's probably safe. I exchanged the clear canister for an $80, DEC approved, 2.5 lbs giant piece of crap. When it arrived at the house, we had all of our gear and food laid out on the guest bed. We took the canister out of the box and set it on the bed. We both looked at each other in horror. The thing was HUGE! It literally took up three quarters of my backpack.
-Dig it
I read a horrendous statistic somewhere about the amount of human poop the park service has to shovel up every season in the Adirondack Mountains. There were actually reports of them scooping up piles on the top of Mount Marcy. Now, what kind of degenerate turd would climb to the tallest mountain in Upstate New York only to take a dumb on it's rocky summit? That seemed like an insurmountable disregard for beauty and other fellow hikers. I'll take bears and creepers lurking around our tent any day over a misstep into a pile of human crap. I'd never be the same.
There were rustic privies near camping areas but not many along the main trail. It was advised to "dig it" and bury any human waste if privies were not available. Wanda bought a backpacking trowel and proudly hooked it to the outside of her backpack.
We got an early start, arriving at the Adirondack Loj at 5:30AM in mid July. We paid the parking fee of $15 to the attendant at the booth and thankfully found a parking spot. The lot was almost full with hikers and dogs swarming like bees. There was a sense of awe seeing all these people here in the wee hours of the morning doing exactly what we were. A DEC forest ranger approached a group next to us and asked them their plans and to see their bear canister. I proudly pulled mine out of the trunk of the car expecting he'd ask us too. When he casually strolled past us without a word, I felt rejected. I wanted to run up to him and force him to touch it. Please touch my bear canister. It has amazing curves. He didn't look like the joking type so I didn't.
We headed over to the the High Peaks Information Center, a cool building with an inviting wrap-around porch. The cheery staff greeted us and said coffee will be available for purchase soon. I fell in love. A blown-up version of the Adirondack Trail map was on display. I walked up to it, and held the corners of it's glass case. I felt butterflies in my stomach. The man at the counter probably sensed my anxiety. He walked over and asked what we were hiking today. For a moment we considered doing the loop trail to Marcy, Skylight, and Gray. It wouldn't have significantly changed our miles round-trip and the thought of knocking off three peaks in one hike seemed rewarding. It was a rainy summer that year. The man warned us about the bog with floating logs off the Lake Arnold trail. He said it was chest deep due to all the rain. I pictured Wanda rolling off one of the logs and into the murky water, emerging with green slime on her beautiful Latino locks. Our journey to become Adirondack 46ers and possibly my relationship would have ended there. We thought it was best to stick with the original plan and just do the Mount Marcy hike.
We packed up our gear and headed out to the trail head. As usual my backpack felt way too heavy. Girls needs stuff. Several water bottles, two water filters, a first aid kit, sleeping bag, tent, head lamps, personal essentials, cookware, and that damn bear canister. It was a beautiful morning, low humidity with temperatures in the 70s. We waited in line to sign the trail register. When it was our turn, Wanda insisted on getting pictures even though there were 10 people waiting behind us. She snapped away as I faked a smile while looking at all the faces staring back at me. I apologized to them. They seemed friendly and understood but they may have considered stabbing Wanda with a trekking pole. It was hard to tell.
It was a relatively easy hike to Marcy Dam with lots of flat sections and some rolling ups and downs. We walked out onto the remnants of the old dam and immediately turned around. It felt unsafe. We crossed Marcy Brook via the wooden bridge and signed another trail register. It was less crowded than the first one. I think everyone passed us. We're slow hikers and easily distracted with funny looking mushrooms.
The view from here was spectacular. The water cascaded through through the boulders and I pictured a crisp star-filled sky in the evening. It would have been a beautiful place to set up camp but their were several "No Camping" signs . Thankfully there were campsites relatively close so it would have been easy enough to enjoy this area before turning in for the evening.
It wasn't difficult finding a campsite. There were several. We had neighbors which is common. We set up our tent up in a nice area and left some of our belongings inside, except for the bear canister. To this day, I don't know why I brought it with me and yes, I did hike to Mount Marcy's summit with the damn thing in my backpack. I had an unusual attachment to it stemmed by hatred.
The trail was really wet. At times it felt like we were walking through a small stream. The elevation gain was strenuous but more gradual than some of the other high peaks and there were very few technical rock faces to climb. We kept leap-frogging a nice couple that hiked at a similar pace with us. It was a relief to know we weren't the only slow hikers. We took our time, taking lots of breaks , hopping around boulders, crossing streams, and enjoying the day. It really was a beautiful day.
We arrived at the trail to Indian Falls and crossed over Marcy Brook again. This was the last reliable water source besides the mud puddles on the trail which I wouldn't suggest drinking unless you want a weight-loss program called "dysentery". We filled up our water bottles and considered hiking to Indian Falls but decided against it. I heard the view is like none- other, but we couldn't quite convince ourselves to hike the added steps. "Maybe on the way back," we said. We laugh now when we say that because we know that we never see anything that requires additional steps on the way back.
There were several trails that crisscrossed by the brook and it was a bit confusing. I checked the AllTrails app to make sure we were still heading to Marcy. The steep trail narrowed and the balsam firs brushed against our arms. We had to do a couple weird little dances to let returning hikers pass. We approached a family with two teenagers who were having an apparent meltdown. The kids wanted to go back and the parents said no. We didn't see them again so I'm not sure who won the battle.
We were exhausted. Just when I thought the trail was steep, it became steeper. Once we emerged from the tree line, the rocky summit came into view. It was the recharge we needed to push our tired legs to the top. The views in every direction were incredible. The wind increased and the temperature was much cooler. The rock slides near the summit were not scary and I never feared for my safety but I could see how that could have changed quickly if a thunderstorm blew in or the winds increased. We were really exposed and there would have been nowhere to take shelter. It was hard not to look around at all the views while climbing. A few times I stood up straight and the weight of my backpack pulled me backwards. I had to make a quick jolt to counter its weight.
It took us a laughable seven hours to reach the top of Mt Marcy. There was no rush.
It's hard to find a better word other than "breathtaking." The summit was a peaceful oasis with lots of tired hikers and a few dogs. We took lots of pictures and shared a snack. It was a lot quieter and more enjoyable than the summit of Cascade which we hiked just three weeks prior. A trail steward pointed out the other peaks by name to all of us curious onlookers. I asked her which one is the hardest peak to climb.
"It depends on the weather. A miserable day can make even the easiest of peaks a bear to climb."
I can attest to that. It was 92 degrees when we hiked Cascade and Porter. I thought we were going to die.
She pointed to Mt Haystack in the distance, a unique mountain with a bald dome-like summit that resembled stacks of hay. "If you are afraid of heights or being exposed, Haystack will be your biggest challenge. It's also a long rugged hike."
The couple we kept leap-frogging on the trail joined us. We congratulated each other and made small talk. We asked them if they were overnighting. They said no. The promise of a hot shower, pizza, and a cold beer would get them to their hotel. Wanda and I looked at each other and I could tell we both had the same thought.
We would have liked to stay longer but it was getting cold and we already knew the decent down would be just as challenging as going up. We begrudgingly put on our backpacks. I asked Wanda how far the bear canister would get if I just threw it off the summit.
"It would probably smash into a million pieces on the first rock it hit and then that trail steward would make you trek down the rock faces to pick it up."
We both laughed.
We passed several hikers as we descended. A man asked us if we had a spare hair tie or something he can wrap around his shoe. He pointed to is non-hiking shoe. I say non-hiking because it was like a men's dress shoe, not at all something you should be hiking 15 miles in. The sole was almost completely severed from the actual shoe. It was held on by one tiny little stitch. He laughed when I asked him... "What kind of hiking boot is that?"
"I know," he said. "I really wasn't prepared for this hike."
We didn't have anything to give him but we shared a few laughs and wished him well.
It took us what felt like a long time to get back. We didn't say much. Every step counted over the wet and slippery rocks. I've discovered that talking and descending don't mix well for us. It takes a lot of concentration to navigate the boulders on steep terrain.
We passed by several hikers still pushing their way to the summit. I feared they would be returning in the dark, but I've come to find out that many people plan to be on the summit to watch the sunset and even the sunrise. I have yet to convince Wanda that this would be a fun adventure, but I'm still hopeful.
About three miles from the summit we heard a man yelling down below us. We stopped and listened intently.
"It's just one foot in front of the other, Beth. Do you want to turn around? Is that what you want?" His voice was filled with rage.
A subdued voice answered a faint, "no."
I hurried down the trail. I heard Wanda say to my back "Stay out of it."
The man yelled again, "This was your idea. Your idea Beth. You wanted this."
Gosh... he really was a giant asshole. I squeezed the grip on my trekking pole as he came into sight. It would have be easy to stab him in the forehead and push him over the ravine. As he approached, he put his head down and quietly passed by. Coward.
Beth, a red-haired woman in her early 30s emerged. She was struggling. Her face, wet with tears.
"Are you ok?" I asked.
She nodded "yes" while more tears pooled in her eyes.
"You should come with us. We'll take you back."
"I should," she said. She looked up in his direction. "But I can't."
I wanted to grab her and take her with me but it could have fanned the flames in an already heated situation. It wasn't my business. "I understand. Be safe. There's no harm in turning back. You still have about three miles to the summit."
More tears came. "Thank you."
We left Beth standing on the trail. I didn't look back as my heart broke for her. I thought about her every step on the way back to Marcy Dam. She had a small backpack and if she survived that horrible excuse for a human, would she have the supplies to get back to the car if she found herself on the mountain in the dark? I feared for her.
Our mood was definitely one of somber when we reached our tent. Our legs were tired and that beautiful day was overshadowed by sadness.
Do you want stay here?' I asked Wanda.
"I can't get beer and pizza out of my head. It's only a little over two miles to the parking lot and it's an easy two miles. Let's go."
We ripped the tent down in seconds. As we packed it up, two trail stewards approached us.
"Hello ladies," they said with a friendly but stern tone.
We both said hello.
"What are your plans for the evening?"
"We're hiking back to the parking lot."
"Ok. Good. We're just going around checking for bear canisters. Do you have yours?"
Finally someone asked about the damn thing. "Yes, would you like to see it?"
"No, that won't be necessary." They smiled politely.
We talked about bears and they said there was one in the area that ripped a few tents down to get to food that was left inside. The jerk inside me couldn't help but wonder if they told everyone that story to validate carrying the canisters. What can I say... I was hungry, tired, and sore.
I told them about Beth and they questioned us further about her where-abouts, and her appearance. They radioed to another trail steward on the summit and gave them the information. They said one of them will eventually run into her today, assuming she stayed on the trail. They hoped she wouldn't have to be rescued saying that on a busy weekend, they have several rescues a day especially unprepared folks that get caught out in the dark.
Those last two easy miles from Marcy Dam to the parking lot were horrendous. Our backpacks were heavy and our legs were dead sore.
We drove to the Cascade Inn and enjoyed a fabulous dinner while we toasted to a "perfect hike," and to Beth, "be strong."
Hiking Mt Marcy. Frequently asked questions...
-Is Mt Marcy safe to hike?
Generally speaking, yes but this varies largely on weather conditions and hiker preparedness. Mt Marcy sees several rescues a year. Some life threatening and some not. Weather can change quickly and hypothermia is a risk even on a warm summer day.
-Can children and dogs hike Mt Marcy?
Yes, but it is a long hike for short legs. At it's shortest distance of 15 miles round trip, it's a challenge for even the most experienced of hikers.
-What should I bring on my Mt Marcy hike?
Water bottles, a water filter, lots of food, toilet paper and a zip lock bag for waste, a headlamp, a map and compass, insect repellant, warm clothes, a first aid kit, an emergency blanket, and camping gear if you plan on overnighting.
-Can I camp on Mt Marcy?
You cannot camp on the summit of Mt Marcy or anywhere above 3500ft in elevation. Marcy Dam is the most popular camping area near the Mt Marcy trail. If you are hiking from the Upperworks parking area, Lake Colden is the preferred choice for camping and is one of my favorites.
-Can I hike Mt Marcy in a day?
Yes but it is a long day. Get an early start so you can be back to the parking lot before dark.
-Can I make a reservation to park at the Adirondack Loj parking area?
No. Parking is first come-first serve. Get there early to secure a spot.
-What other peaks can I hike with Mt Marcy?
There are many choices and this will largely depend on how much time you have. Marcy, Grey, and Skylight are often climbed together in one very long day trip or as an overnight. Colden, Cliff, and Redfield can be also be added with an overnight near Lake Colden. The possibilities are vast.
-Can I hike Mt Marcy in the winter.
Yes but this is only recommended for experienced hikers and proper gear must be worn. Summiting Mt Marcy is a long trek through the backcountry. The weather is extremely unpredictable and the terrain is often dangerous in the winter months.
-How long does it take to hike Mt Marcy?
It took us 13 hours roundtrip, but we are slow hikers. For us it's about the experience, not the time. We also set up our camp and then tore it down. I would imagine it can be done in 9-10 hours but plan for more so it can truly be enjoyed.
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